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Driveway Pitting? A Resurfacer Can Make Concrete Smooth Again

Pits and flaking come from freeze-thaw and salt eating the surface. Stop the damage and clean for free, then resurface to make the slab smooth.

By Jamilur Rahman Updated November 5, 2026 · 6 min read

Time
1 day plus cure time
Cost
$50-$150
Difficulty
Medium
A gray concrete driveway surface covered in small pits, with a flaking patch where the top layer has broken away
In this guide
  1. Quick answer
  2. Free vs. permanent fix
  3. What you'll need
  4. Why it happens
  5. Try this first (free)
  6. When free fixes aren't enough
  7. Buy the fix
  8. Pitting, scaling or spalling: what you have
  9. After you resurface: cure and seal
  10. What to skip
  11. FAQ
  12. Related problems

Quick answer

Driveway pitting and spalling happen when water in the top layer of concrete freezes and pops the surface off. Rock salt and a weak surface make it worse. Stop using salt, wash the slab and remove loose bits. That halts new damage but cannot fill the pits. A polymer concrete resurfacer, squeegeed on in a thin layer, renews the whole surface and makes it smooth again.

Free fix vs. permanent fix

Free fix · 2 hours

Stop the damage and clean the surface

  • Stop using rock salt and use sand for grip
  • Scrape off loose flakes with a wire brush
  • Pressure wash the slab clean
  • Check for deep cracks and rust stains

How long it lasts: Slows new pitting, but the pits already there stay, and water keeps collecting in them.

Most readers choose Permanent fix
Polymer-modified concrete resurfacer (illustration)
Illustration

A concrete resurfacer

Pits and flakes are surface damage, and no amount of cleaning fills them. A resurfacer is a thin, polymer-rich cement mix. It fills pits and flaking and leaves a smooth surface across the slab, so water stops collecting in holes.

What to get: Polymer-modified concrete resurfacer

How long it lasts: Often many years on a sound slab. It is a thin new surface bonded to the old one, and a sealer helps it last.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

What you'll need

  • Pressure washer, wire brush and stiff broom

    To get the slab spotless. A rental pressure washer works

    You have it
  • Drill with mixing paddle

    To mix the resurfacer without lumps

    You have it
  • Our pick
    Concrete resurfacer (illustration)
    Illustration

    Concrete resurfacer

    Check the bag's coverage against your slab size

  • Concrete patch for deep pits (illustration)
    Illustration

    Concrete patch for deep pits

    For holes too deep for a thin coat

  • Long-handled squeegee (illustration)
    Illustration

    Long-handled squeegee

    Spreads the resurfacer in a thin, even coat

  • Concrete sealer (illustration)
    Illustration

    Concrete sealer

    Protects the new surface from water and salt

Why it happens

1

Freeze-thaw cycles

Concrete soaks up water. When it freezes, it expands, and the thin top layer pops off. That leaves pits and flakes, which is called spalling.

2

De-icing salt

Rock salt and other de-icers speed up scaling, especially on concrete less than a year old. Ammonium-based de-icers also attack concrete chemically.

3

A weak surface from the pour

Too much water in the mix, or over-troweling, leaves a thin, weak skin that flakes away.

4

Rusting steel near the surface

Rebar or mesh too close to the top rusts and swells, cracking the concrete above it. Look for rust stains and cracks.

Try this first (free)

Do these in order, starting with the simplest.

  1. 1. Stop using rock salt

    Switch to sand for traction. If you use a melt product, choose one made to be concrete-safe, and avoid ammonium-based ones. Our ice melt page has more.

  2. 2. Scrape off loose bits

    Tool used: Pressure washer, wire brush and stiff broom

    Use a wire brush and a stiff broom to remove flakes and loose grit until you reach solid concrete. Wear safety glasses and a dust mask.

  3. 3. Wash the slab

    Tool used: Pressure washer, wire brush and stiff broom

    Pressure wash with a wide fan tip, or scrub with a stiff broom and degreaser for oil spots. Resurfacer will not bond to oil, dirt or old sealer. The slab must be clean.

  4. 4. Check what is really wrong

    Look for cracks wider than about 1/4 inch, sunken or tilted sections and rust stains. Those point to a deeper problem. Resurfacing a moving slab will crack again.

  5. 5. Fill deep pits first

    Tool used: Concrete patch for deep pits

    For any hole deeper than the resurfacer label allows, usually about 1/2 inch, fill it with concrete patch and let it cure first.

    Concrete patch for deep pits (illustration)
    Illustration

    Tool for this step

    Concrete patch for deep pits · For holes too deep for a thin coat

    Check price on Amazon
  6. 6. Resurface in a mild, dry window

    Tool used: Concrete resurfacer

    Dampen the slab so it is wet with no puddles. Mix the resurfacer to pancake-batter thickness, pour a ribbon and spread it with a squeegee in a thin coat. Finish with a light broom pass and work in sections.

    Concrete resurfacer (illustration)
    Illustration

    Tool for this step

    Concrete resurfacer · Check the bag's coverage against your slab size

    Check price on Amazon

When free fixes aren't enough

Cleaning and no more salt prevent new damage, but they cannot fill the pits or restore a smooth surface. For widespread pitting, a resurfacer is the real fix, because it is a thin layer made for exactly this job. If cracks are wide, or the slab has sunk or tilted, a resurfacer will not hold, so fix or replace that part of the slab first. If you see exposed or rusting rebar, call a concrete contractor.

Buy the fix

Still stuck after the free fixes? These are the products we would look at.

Our picks compared
PickProductFixesWho it's forBuy
Best pick
Polymer-modified concrete resurfacer (illustration)
Illustration
Polymer-modified concrete resurfacer
widespread pitting, scaling and flaking on a sound slab Homeowners with a solid slab and a rough, pitted surface. Check price
Budget pick
Concrete patch for deep pits (illustration)
Illustration
Concrete patch for deep pits
pits and chips too deep for a thin resurfacer Owners with a few deep holes and an otherwise good surface. Check price
Upgrade pick
Penetrating concrete sealer (illustration)
Illustration
Penetrating concrete sealer
water and salt soaking into the new surface Anyone in a freeze-thaw area or where roads are salted. Check price
Best pick
Polymer-modified concrete resurfacer (illustration)
Illustration

Polymer-modified concrete resurfacer

Fixes: widespread pitting, scaling and flaking on a sound slab

Look for: A label for driveways and vehicle traffic; Pourable or self-leveling, so it spreads with a squeegee; A coverage and thickness range that fits your slab, per the label; A temperature range that matches your weather.

Who it's for
Homeowners with a solid slab and a rough, pitted surface.
Honest downside
The slab has wide cracks, is sinking or shifting, or has exposed rebar. Resurfacing a moving slab cracks again.
Budget pick
Concrete patch for deep pits (illustration)
Illustration

Concrete patch for deep pits

Fixes: pits and chips too deep for a thin resurfacer

Look for: Labeled for exterior concrete and vehicle traffic; Bonds in thin layers and feathers out; A cure time that fits your schedule.

Who it's for
Owners with a few deep holes and an otherwise good surface.
Honest downside
The pitting is widespread across the slab. A resurfacer is faster and covers it all.
Upgrade pick
Penetrating concrete sealer (illustration)
Illustration

Penetrating concrete sealer

Fixes: water and salt soaking into the new surface

Look for: Rated for driveways and de-icing salts; Breathable, so moisture can escape; Applies with a roller or sprayer.

Who it's for
Anyone in a freeze-thaw area or where roads are salted.
Honest downside
The resurfacer's label gives a different sealer or says to wait longer. Follow its directions.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. We don't show prices because they change, so use the button to see today's price.

How we picked: How we picked: this page is based on concrete repair guides, resurfacer maker instructions, and the problems and fixes homeowners report in reviews. We do not test products by hand.

Pitting, scaling or spalling: what you have

  • Pitting: small holes in the surface.
  • Scaling: the thin top layer flakes off in patches.
  • Spalling: bigger chunks break away. A resurfacer handles shallow spalling. Deep spalling needs a patch.

After you resurface: cure and seal

Keep traffic off for the time on the label. Misting lightly for a day or two can help in hot, dry weather. After it cures, a sealer helps keep water and salt out of the new surface. Check the resurfacer label for when to apply it.

What to skip

Painting over pits, or skim-coating with plain mortar

Paint and sealer alone hide pitting for a season, then flake. Plain mortar or ordinary cement skim coats do not bond to old concrete and peel off. Skip them and use a polymer resurfacer made for the job.

Frequently asked questions

Why is my driveway pitting or crumbling?
Water soaks into the surface, freezes and pops the top layer off. Rock salt, a weak mix and rusting steel near the top make it worse. Stop the salt, then resurface.
Why is my driveway chipping, and can I fix spalling myself?
Chipping is spalling, where the surface flakes away. You can fix shallow spalling and pitting yourself with a patch and a resurfacer, as long as the slab is sound.
How thick can a resurfacer go?
Only a fraction of an inch, often up to about 1/2 inch. Check the bag for its range. Deeper holes need a patch first.
How long before I can drive on it?
Many labels say foot traffic after about a day and cars after two to three days. Follow the one on your bag, and keep the surface damp while it cures if it says so.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Affiliate disclosure

Polymer-modified concrete resurfacer (illustration)
Illustration

Our pick: Polymer-modified concrete resurfacer

Check price